Alsace

Alsace lies in north-eastern France, between the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine plain on the German border to the east. Its vineyards largely follow the sunny east- and south-east-facing foothills of the Vosges, from around Marlenheim to Thann. The mountains block much Atlantic rainfall, making this a notably dry, sunny continental region with cold winters and often a long growing season. Grapes can therefore develop generous aroma and ripeness while generally retaining useful acidity.

Its geology is remarkably diverse. Granite, limestone, marl, sandstone, loam, schist and, in places, volcanic soils occur in close proximity. This patchwork, combined with variations in elevation and aspect, accounts for the marked distinctions among villages and vineyard sites. Riesling often excels on stony, free-draining slopes, while Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer can give ample wines on richer clay and marl. Alsace has a long tradition of varietal wines: unlike in much of France, the grape name is usually displayed prominently on the label.

Riesling is the regional benchmark for dry, citrus- and stone-fruit-led whites with ageing potential. Gewürztraminer is broader, spicy and intensely perfumed, suggesting rose, lychee and exotic spice. Pinot Gris tends to be rounder and can show a smoky character, while Pinot Blanc and Auxerrois are softer, more immediately approachable styles. Muscat is often dry and grapey; Sylvaner is light and fresh. Pinot Noir is the leading red grape, used for rosé and increasingly for light to substantial red wines. Crémant d’Alsace is the region’s sparkling wine, made by the traditional method.

The three principal appellations are Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru and Crémant d’Alsace. Alsace Grand Cru comprises 51 delimited vineyards; rules vary by cru and govern matters including permitted grapes and yields. The traditional four noble varieties are Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat, with a few vineyard-specific exceptions. Vendanges Tardives denotes late-harvest, concentrated wines, while Sélection de Grains Nobles is made from selected botrytised berries and is generally sweet. Riquewihr, Ribeauvillé, Hunawihr, Kaysersberg, Eguisheim, Turckheim and Barr are key names to know. Dry Riesling and fine Grand Cru wines can age beautifully; simpler whites and most Crémant are usually best enjoyed younger.