Castel del Monte

Castel del Monte lies in northern Puglia, on the limestone plateau of the Alta Murgia, around towns including Andria, Corato, Minervino Murge and Ruvo di Puglia. Its name comes from the medieval Castel del Monte near Andria, although the vineyards are spread across a broad, undulating landscape. This is not the uniformly hot, flat Puglia of stereotype: elevation, persistent winds and pronounced day-night temperature differences give the area a relatively continental feel. Summers are dry and sunny, while cooler nights help grapes retain aromatic definition and acidity.

Limestone, calcareous clay and stony, often lean soils are central to the local identity. In higher sites, ripening is slowed, an especially useful asset for Nero di Troia, the region's defining grape. This late-ripening black variety can make deeply coloured wines with firm tannins, fresh structure and notes of black cherry, plum, violet, spice and, with age, cocoa or tobacco. Aglianico and Montepulciano also contribute to red blends. Bombino Nero is important for rosé and red wines, while Bombino Bianco and Pampanuto are among the traditional white grapes.

Castel del Monte DOC covers dry white, rosé and red wines, made either from individual varieties or blends. International grapes, notably Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, also appear, particularly in more contemporary bottlings. The area additionally has three DOCG designations: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva and Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva. Permitted grapes, blend proportions and ageing rules depend on the individual designation; Riserva is therefore a legally defined category rather than a blanket quality claim.

Nero di Troia from Castel del Monte can be austere and tightly wound in youth, but it often gains suppleness and savoury complexity in bottle. The better Riservas can commonly evolve for five to ten years or more, depending on producer and vintage. Fresher Bombino Nero rosati work well with Adriatic seafood, while the whites tend toward citrus, white flowers and a lightly saline, herbal edge. Producers active in the appellation include Rivera, Torrevento, Tormaresca and Santa Lucia.